Marina Moskowitz, Vivienne Richmond, Editorial Note, p. 115

OTHER
Pasold Research Fund/Taylor & Francis Textile History Open Access First Publication Award, p. 117

ARTICLES
Anita Quye, Dominique Cardon, Jenny Balfour Paul, The Crutchley Archive: Red Colours on Wool Fabrics from Master Dyers, London 1716-1744, p. 119
Frank Rhodes, Peter Rhodes, Late Medieval English Embroidered Conventional Flowers, p. 167
John Styles, The Rise and Fall of the Spinning Jenny: Domestic Mechanisation in Eighteenth-Century Cotton Spinning, p. 195

Marina Moskowitz, Vivienne Richmond, Editorial Note, p. 1

OTHER
Pasold Research Fund/Taylor & Francis Textile History Open Access First Publication Award, p. 4

ARTICLE
Malgorzata Mozdzynska-Nawotka, Dressed ‘as if for a Carnival’: Solving the Mystery of the Origins of Children’s Fashion. A New Perspective on the History and Historiography of Children’s Dress, p. 5
Allison J. Martino, From Kings to Kids: Refashioning Akan Adinkra Symbols as ‘African’ Motifs in a Nineteenth-Century British Cloth Design, p. 29
Elisha P. Renne, Reinterpreting Adire Cloth in Northern Nigeria, p. 60

EDITORIAL
Marina Moskowitz, Vivienne Richmond, Editorial Note, p. 123

MISCELLANY
Pasold Research Fund/Taylor & Francis Textile History Open Access First Publication Award, p. 127

ARTICLES
Rosalind Mearns, Material Messages: A Reassessment of the Double Portrait of Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon, p. 128
Nicole Pohl, ‘Knitting needles, knotting shuttles, Totums, Cards, Counters’: The Bluestockings and the Material Culture of Fibre Arts, p. 143
Cynthia Fowler, Transatlantic Textiles: Ireland’s Dun Emer Textiles in America During the First Decade of the Twentieth Century, p. 163
Jade Halbert, Cabbage, Tradition and Bunce: Marion Donaldson and the Black Economy of the British Rag Trade in the 1970s, p. 187

TEXTILE HISTORY 50TH ANNIVERSARY ESSAYS
Chris Breward, Fashion, p. 206
Adrienne D. Hood, Gender, p. 212
Barbara Karl, Cultural Heritage, p. 218
Susan Kay-Williams, Dyes and Dyeing, p. 225
Prasannan Parthasarathi, Global Trade, p. 232
John Styles, Consumption, p. 237
Amanda Thatch, Craft, p. 244

EDITORIAL
Marina Moskowitz, Vivienne Richmond, Editorial Note, p. 1

ARTICLES
Jutta Wimmler, rom Senegal to Augsburg: Gum Arabic and the Central European Textile Industry in the Eighteenth Century, p. 4
Virginia Gardner Troy, Textiles as the Face of Modernity: Artistry and Industry in Mid-Century America, p. 23
Rudy Jos Beerens, The Amsterdam Tapestry Producer Alexander Baert (1660-1719) and his Workshop: New Findings, p. 41
Shinobu Majima, Business History, p. 55
Mary M. Brooks, Conservation, p. 62
Philip A. Sykas, Design, p. 73
Charlotte Niklas, Dress, p. 82
Beverly Lemire, Material Culture, p. 87
Miki Sugiura, Value, p. 93

EDITORIAL
Marina Moskowitz, Vivienne Richmond, Editorial Note, p. 137

ARTICLES
Isabella Rosner, ‘A Cunning Skill Did Lurk’: Susanna Perwich and the Mysteries of a Seventeenth-Century Needlework Cabinet, p. 140
Elizabeth Spencer, ‘None but Abigails appeared in white aprons’: The Apron as an Elite Garment in Eighteenth-Century England, p. 164

RESEARCH NOTES
María María Barrigón, New Interpretations Concerning the Shape of Queen Eleanor Plantagenet’s Headdress from her Tomb in Las Huelgas Abbey (1214), p. 191
Cary Karp, Defining Crochet, p. 208

Obituary , p. 224

Marina Moskowitz, Vivienne Richmond, Editorial Note, p. 1

ARTICLES
Koenraad Brosens, Klara Alen, Astrid Slegten, Claiming Commerce, Quality and Credit: Raisons d’être of the Antwerp and Brussels tapissierspanden (Sixteenth-Eighteenth Centuries), p. 5
Cecilie Brøns, Kerstin Droß-Krüpe, The Colour Purple? Reconsidering the Greek Word halourgos (????????) and its Relation to Ancient Textiles, p. 22
Jing Han, Anita Quye, Dyes and Dyeing in the Ming and Qing Dynasties in China: Preliminary Evidence Based on Primary Sources of Documented Recipes, p. 44
Alison Toplis, The Smock Frock: The Journey from Fieldwork to the Pages of Vogue, p. 71
Janice Helland, A Gift of Lace: Queen Mary’s Coronation Train, 1911, p. 92

Exhbition Review, p. 112

Marina Moskowitz, Vivienne Richmond, Editorial Note, p. 157

ARTICLES
Keith Sugden, An Occupational Study to Track the Rise of Adult Male Mule Spinning in Lancashire and Cheshire, 1777-1813, p. 160
Maureen C. Miller, A Descriptive Language of Dominion? Curial Inventories, Clothing, and Papal Monarchy c. 1300, p. 176
Timothy Carroll, Textiles and the Making of Sacred Space, p. 192
Cecilia Candréus, Embroidery as a Means of Diplomacy: The Artisans’ Part in a Royal Marriage Proposal, 1560-1561, p. 211

RESEARCH NOTE
Rebecca Olson, Margaret Beaufort, Royal Tapestries, and Confinement at the Tudor Court, p. 233

OBJECT LESSON
Gwendolyn Collaço, Dressing a City’s Demeanour: Ottoman Costume Albums and the Portrayal of Urban Identity in the Early Seventeenth Century, p. 248

Exhibition Reviews, p. 268
Book Reviews, p. 283

Marina Moskowitz, Vivienne Richmond, Editorial Note, p. 1

ARTICLE
Sarah Fee, Pedro Machado, Entangled Histories: Translocal Textile Trades in Eastern Africa, c. 800 CE to the Early Twentieth Century, p. 4

OBJECT LESSON
Ruth Barnes, Indian Cotton for Cairo: The Royal Ontario Museum’s Gujarati Textiles and the Early Western Indian Ocean Trade, p. 15

RESEARCH NOTE
Edward A. Alpers, Indian Textiles at Mozambique Island in the Mid-Eighteenth Century, p. 31

ARTICLES
Sarah Fee, ‘Cloths with Names’: Luxury Textile Imports in Eastern Africa, c. 1800-1885, p. 49
Samuel Sanchez, Complex Strands: Changing Textile Trades in Western Madagascar and the Mozambique Channel in the Nineteenth Century, Evidence from Nosy Be Island, p. 85
MacKenzie Moon Ryan, A Decade of Design: The Global Invention of the Kanga, 1876-1886, p. 101

Conference Reviews, p. 133
Book Reviews, p. 145

Laura Ugolini, Editorial Note, p. 143

ARTICLES
Eiluned Mair Edwards, Ajrakh: From Caste Dress to Catwalk, p. 146
Angela Loxham, Cleric or Conman, Curate or Crook? Understanding the Victorian Draper, p. 171
Pauline Reynolds, Tapa Cloths and Beaters: Tradition, innovation and the Agency of the Bounty Women in Shaping a New Culture on Pitcairn Island from 1790 to 1850, p. 190
Keith Sugden, The Location of the Textile industry in England and Wales, 1813-1820, p. 208
Barbara Hahn, Spinning through the History of Technology: A Methodological Note, p. 227

RESEARCH NOTES
Frank Rhodes, Peter Rhodes, Medieval Embroidered ‘Water Flowers’, p. 243

Special Issue: Ways of Seeing Early Modern Decorative Textiles

Laura Ugolini, Editorial Note, p. 1

ARTICLES
Catherine Richardson, Tara Hamling, Ways of Seeing Early Modern Decorative Textiles, p. 4
Maria Hayward, In the Eye of the Beholder: ‘Seeing’ Textiles in the Early Modern Interior, p. 27

OBJECT LESSON
Claire Canavan, ‘[A]ll Sorts of Stiches’: Looking at Detail in a Proclamation of Solomon Embroidery, p. 43
Amanda Pullan, ‘Informed Seeing’: Reading the Seventeenth-Century Embroidered Cabinet at Milton Manor House through its Historical and Social Contexts, p. 49

ARTICLE
Mary M. Brooks, ‘Mouldering Chairs and Faded Tapestry … Unworthy of the Observation of a Common Person’: Considering Textiles in Historic Interiors, p. 60

RESEARCH NOTE
Dinah Eastop, New Ways of Engaging with Historic Textiles: Interactive Images Online, p. 82
Benjamin W. Tatler, Ross G. Macdonald, Tara Hamling, Catherine Richardson, Looking at Domestic Textiles: An Eye-Tracking Experiment Analysing Influences on Viewing Behaviour at Owlpen Manor, p. 94

Kaori O’Connor, Laura Ugolini, Editors’ Note, p. 143

ARTICLES
Maria João Ferreira, Asian Textiles in the Carreira da Índia: Portuguese Trade, Consumption and Taste, 1500-1700, p. 147
Amy Jane Barnes, Malika Kraamer, Japanese Saris: Dress, Globalisation and Multiple Migrants, p. 169
Suchitra Choudhury, ‘It Was an Imitashon to be Sure’: The Imitation Indian Shawl in Design Reform and Imaginative Fiction, p. 189
Moira White, Catherine Ann Smith, Kahu Te Kanawa, Maori Textiles from Puketoi Station, Otago, New Zealand, p. 213-

OBJECT LESSON
María Barrigón, Textiles and Farewells: Revisiting the Grave Goods of King Alfonso VIII of Castile and Queen Eleanor Plantagenet, p. 235-257

Mary M. Brooks and Laura Ugolini, Editors’ Note, p. 1

ARTICLES
Elisabeth Gernerd, Pulled Tight and Gleaming: The Stocking’s Position within Eighteenth-Century Masculinity, p. 3
James Boyd, The Role of Rural Textile Production in South-West German Emigration: Württemberg Communities in the Early Nineteenth Century, p. 28
Koenraad Brosens, Botta Adorno, Empress Maria Theresa and Brussels Tapestry. Part II, p. 50
Stanley Chapman, Jane Middleton-Smith, John Smedley: The Establishment of a Tradition in Fine Knitwear (1), c. 1750-1874, p. 70
Deborah Wynne, The ‘Despised Trade’ in Textiles: H. G. Wells, William Paine, Charles Cavers and the Male Draper’s Life, 1870-1914, p. 99

Conference Reviews, p. 114
Exhibition Reviews, p. 120

Editors’ Note, p. 143

ARTICLES
Nicole Baur, Joseph Melling, Dressing and Addressing the Mental Patient: The Uses of Clothing in the Admission, Care and Employment of Residents in English Provincial Mental Hospitals, c. 1860-1960, p. 145
Hilary Doda, ‘Saide Monstrous Hose’: Compliance, Transgression and English Sumptuary Law to 1533, p. 171
Barbara Karl, Silk and Propaganda – Two Ottoman Silk Flags and the Relief of Vienna, 1683, p. 192
Koenraad Brosens, Botta Adorno, Empress Maria Theresa and Brussels Tapestry in the Mid-Eighteenth Century. Part I, p. 216

OBJECT LESSON
Jacqueline Field, Mud Silk and the Chinese Laundress: From the South China Silk Industry to Mud Silk Suits in Maine, p. 234

Conference Review, p. 261
Exhibition Reviews, p. 263
Book Reviews, p. 271
Society information/news, p. 282

Mary M. Brooks, Laura Ugolini, Editors’ Note, p. 1

ARTICLES
John W. Stephenson, Veiling the Late Roman House, p. 3
Laura Price, Immigrants and Apprentices: Solutions to the Post-War Labour Shortage in the West Yorkshire Wool Textile Industry, 1945-1980, p. 32
Olivier Raveux, Fashion and Consumption of Painted and Printed Calicoes in the Mediterranean during the later Seventeenth Century: The Case of Chintz Quilts and Banyans in Marseilles, p. 49

RESEARCH NOTE
Moira Thunder, Capturing Understanding of Women’s Embroidery Designs: A Methodology for Research and a Critique of Cataloguing Databases using the Example of Women’s Embroidery in Nineteenth-Century Britain, p. 68

OBJECT LESSON
Clare Rose, Evaluating the Manufacturing and Retailing Practices of H. J. & D. Nicoll through a c. 1860 Boy’s Suit, p. 99

Conference Review, p. 119
Exhibition Reviews, p. 121
Book Reviews, p. 130
Society information/news, p. 139

Editors’ Note, p. 143

ORIGINAL ARTICLE
Styles, John, Spinners and the Law: Regulating Yarn Standards in the English Worsted Industries, 1550-1800, p. 145
Maiwada, Salihu, Renne, Elisha, The Kaduna Textile Industry and the Decline of Textile Manufacturing in Northern Nigeria, 1955-2010, p. 171
Braaten, Ann W., DeLong, Marilyn R., Shawls of the Germans from Russia: Connections to the Past, p. 197
Barker, Derek, Research Note ‘Lost in Oblivion’: James Noble of the Noble Comb, p. 214
Brennan, Emily, Harris, Lori-Ann, Nesbitt, Mark, Object Lesson Jamaican Lace-Bark: Its History and Uncertain Future, p. 235

Editors’ Note, p. 1

ORIGINAL ARTICLE
Kramer, Elizabeth, ‘Not So Japan-Easy’: The British Reception of Japanese Dress in the Late Nineteenth Century, p. 3
Smith, Charlotte Colding, ‘Depicted with Extraordinary Skill’: Ottoman Dress in Sixteenth-Century German Printed Costume Books, p. 25
Bath, Michael, The Four Seasons Tapestries, p. 51
Collins, Jessica, Jane Holt, Milliner, and Other Women in Business: Apprentices, Freewomen and Mistresses in The Clothworkers’ Company, 1606-1800, p. 72

RESEARCH NOTE
Heal, Chris, Alcohol, Madness and a Glimmer of Anthrax: Disease among the Felt Hatters in the Nineteenth Century, p. 95

Exhibition Reviews, p. 120
Conference Reviews, p. 126
Book Reviews, p. 135

Bastow, Sarah L., A Manner of Apology: Sir Robert Stapleton and Archbishop Edwin Sandys in an Elizabethan Cause Célèbre, p. 147
Tuckett, Sally; Nenadic, Stana, Colouring the Nation: A New In-Depth Study of the Turkey Red Pattern Books in the National Museums Scotland, p. 161
Brosens, Koenraad, Revisiting Brussels Tapestry, 1700-1740: New Data on Tapissiers Albert Auwercx and Judocus de Vos, p. 183

RESEARCH NOTE
Hemingway, Jean, Millinery and Old Lace: Miss Jane Clarke of Regent Street, p. 200
Inguanotto, Irina, Elda Cecchele and the Italian Fashion World: From Salvatore Ferragamo to Roberta di Camerino (1950-1970), p. 223

OBJECT LESSON
Eng, Charlotte; Fusco, Maria, Fish Scales and Faux Pearls: A Brief Exploration into the History of Manufacturing Faux Pearls, p. 250

ORIGINAL ARTICLE
Tankard, Danae, `A Pair of Grass-Green Woollen Stockings’: The Clothing of the Rural Poor in Seventeenth-Century Sussex, p. 5
Barahona, Victoria López; Sánchez, José Nieto, Dressing the Poor: The Provision of Clothing among the Lower Classes in Eighteenth-Century Madrid, p. 23
Turner, Hilary L., Working Arras and Arras Workers: Conservation in the Great Wardrobe under Elizabeth I, p. 43
Fee, Sarah, Historic Handweaving in Highland Madagascar: New Insights from a Vernacular Text Attributed to a Royal Diviner-Healer, c. 1870, p. 61

OBJECT LESSON
Tonkin, Leanne C., Insights into the Production of Opus Anglicanum: An Object Analysis of Two Panels from the Pillar Orphreys on the Whalley Abbey Altar Frontal, p. 83
Gilbert, Ruth, A Knitted Cotton Jacket in the Collection of the Knitting and Crochet Guild of Great Britain, p. 90

RESEARCH NOTE
Harwood, Jane; Edom, Gillian, Nettle Fibre: Its Prospects, Uses and Problems in Historical Perspective, p. 107

CONFERENCE REPORT, p. 120

Brooks, Mary M., Ugolini, Laura, Editors’ Note, p. 143

ARTICLES
Rose, Clare, Continuity and Change in Edwardian Children’s Clothing, p. 145
Pollen, Annebella, Performing Spectacular Girlhood: Mass-Produced Dressing-Up Costumes and the Commodification of Imagination, p. 162
Oldland, John, ‘Fyne worsted whech is almost like silke’: Norwich’s Double Worsted, p. 181
Ponsonby, Margaret, Textiles and Time: Reactions to Aged and Conserved Textiles in Historic Houses Open to the Public in England and the USA, p. 200-
Smith, Catherine, Laing, Raechel, What’s in a Name? The Practice and Politics of Classifying Maori Textiles, p. 220

RESEARCH NOTE
Cruickshank, Pippa, Flax in Croatia: Traditional Production Methods, the Use and Care of Linen in Folk Costumes and Implications for Museum Conservation, p. 239

CONFERENCE REPORT
Authors: Baur, Nicole, Melling, Joseph, ‘Fabricating the Body: Textiles and Human Health in Historical Perspective’, Pasold Research Fund Conference, Wellcome Centre for Medical History, University of Exeter, 6-7 April 2001, p. 261

Exhibition Reviews, p. 263
Book Reviews, p. 272

Brooks, Mary M.; Hudson, Pat, Editors’ Note, p. 1

ARTICLES
Jenkins, David, Digitisation of the Back Archive of Textile History, p. 3
Cook, Daniel Thomas, Embracing Ambiguity in the Historiography of Children’s Dress, p. 7
O’Connor, Kaori, The Ladybird, the Dressing Gown and Pasolds: Cultural Icons of the ‘Golden Age’ of British Childhood, p. 22
Honeyman, Katrina, Suits for the Boys: The Leeds Multiple Tailors and the Making of Boys’ Wear 1890-1940, p. 50
Chapman, Stanley, Pasolds Ltd., 1930-70. The Strategy of the Leading British Manufacturer of Children’s Wear, p. 69

RESEARCH NOTES
Fifield, Rebecca, ‘Had on When She Went Away …’: Expanding the Usefulness of Garment Data in American Runaway Advertisements 1750-90 through Database Analysis, p. 80

ARTICLE
Cooper, W. Douglas, The US Textile Industry Renaissance of 1960-80, p. 103