Brooks, Mary M.; Hudson, Pat, Editors’ Note, p. 143

ARTICLES
Carter, Michael, Remembrance, Liturgy and Status in a Late Medieval English Cistercian Abbey: The Mourning Vestment of Abbot Robert Thornton of Jervaulx (1510-33), p. 145
Turner, Hilary L., Some Small Tapestries of Judith with the Head of Holofernes: Should They Be Called Sheldon?, p. 161
Coltman, Viccy, Party-Coloured Plaid? Portraits of Eighteenth-Century Scots in Tartan, p. 182
Clayton, David, Buy British: The Collective Marketing of Cotton Textiles, 1956-1962, p. 217

Obituary, p. 236
Conference Report, p. 241
Exhibition Reviews, p. 244
Book Reviews, p. 256

TEXTILE HISTORY AND THE MILITARY

Galster, Kjeld; Nosch, Marie-Louise, Textile History and the Military: An Introduction, p. 1

Editors’ Note
Honeyman, Katrina, Editorial Note, p. 6

ARTICLES
Kurasinski, Tomasz; Maik, Jerzy; Swietoslawski, Witold, The Use of Textiles in Arms and Armour in Medieval Poland, p. 7
Petersen, Karsten Skjold, Dano-Norwegian Line Infantry Uniforms 1660-1814, p. 17
Paludan, Charlotte, ‘The Gold House’: Military Broadcloth Manufacture in Copenhagen in the Eighteenth Century, p. 31
Lind, Gunner, Uniform and Distinction: Symbolic Aspects of Officer Dress in the Eighteenth-Century Danish State, p. 49
van Hattem, Mark; Pool, Mariska, ‘The monotonousness of this grey uniform’. Design and Mass Production for a Neutral State: the Dutch Uniform 1912-1940, p. 66
Lierneux, Pierre, Military Uniforms in the Southern Low Countries and in Belgium before 1915: Institutional History and Socio-Economic Approaches, p. 83
Breakwell, Amy, A Nation in Extremity: Sewing Machines and the American Civil War, p. 98
Hacker, Barton C.; Vining, Margaret, Cutting a New Pattern: Uniforms and Women’s Mobilization for War 1854-1919, p. 108
Bogaerts, Ilse, The Origin and Evolution of the Kepi in Military Dress, p. 144
Becker, Marshall Joseph, Match Coats and the Military: Mass-Produced Clothing for Native Americans as Parallel Markets in the Seventeenth Century, p. 153
Langkjær, Michael A., ‘Then how can you explain Sgt. Pompous and the Fancy Pants Club Band?’ Utilization of Military Uniforms and Other Paraphernalia by Pop Groups and the Youth Counterculture in the 1960s and Subsequent Periods, p. 182
Prichard, Sue, Precision Patchwork: Nineteenth-Century Military Quilts, p. 214

Brooks, Mary M.; Honeyman, Katrina, Editors’ Note, p. 1

Miscellaneous
Honeyman, Katrina, Notice of Intent to Digitize Back Issues of Textile History, p. 2

ARTICLES
Carocci, Max, Clad with the ‘Hair of Trees’: A History of Native American Spanish Moss Textile Industries, p. 3
Marcketti, Sara B., The Sewing-Room Projects of the Works Progress Administration, p. 28

Research in Focus
Taylor, Helen, Bernat Klein: An Eye for Colour, p. 50
O’Connell Edwards, Lesley, Working Hand Knitters in England from the Sixteenth to the Nineteenth Centuries, p. 70
Arnold, Christine, An Assessment of the Gender Dynamic in Fair Isle (Shetland) Knitwear, p. 86

Object Study
Gordon, Jennifer, Maritime Infl uences on Traditional Knitwear Design: The Case of the Fisherman’s Gansey: An Object Study, p. 99

Exhibition Reviews, p. 109
Book Reviews, p. 123

Mary M. Brooks, Katrina Honeyman, Editors’ Note, p. 135

Introduction
Katrina Honeyman, Clare Rose, Researching the Garment Industry, p. 137

ARTICLES
Sally Tuckett, National Dress, Gender and Scotland: 1745-1822, p. 140
Alison Toplis, The Manufacture and Provision of Rural Garments, 1800-1850: A Case Study of Herefordshire and Worcestershire, p. 152
Clare Paterson, Selling Fashion: Realizing the Research Potential of the House of Fraser Archive, University of Glasgow Archive Services, p. 170
Clare Rose, Advertising Ready-Made Style: The Evidence of the Stationers’ Hall Archive, p. 185
Laura Ugolini, Autobiographies and Menswear Consumption in Britain, e. 1880-1939, p. 202

Research in Focus
M.A. Hann, K. Powers, Tibor Reich – A Textile Designer Working in Stratford, p. 212
Eric C. Hodge, ‘Their palms were crossed with Silver’: The Payment of Workers in Early Textile Factories 1780-1830, p. 229

Obituary, p. 238
Conference Report, p. 240
Exhibition Reviews, p. 242
Book Reviews, p. 249

Mary M. Brooks, Katrina Honeyman, Editors’ Note, pp. 1

ARTICLES
David M. Mitchell, ‘My purple will be too sad for that melancholy room’: Furnishings for Interiors in London and Paris, 1660-1735, p. 3
Anthony Cooke, The Scottish Cotton Masters, 1780-1914, p. 29
Vivienne Richmond, ‘Indiscriminate liberality subverts the Morals and depraves the habits of the Poor’: A Contribution to the Debate on the Poor Law, Parish Clothing Relief and Clothing Societies in Early Nineteenth-Century England, p. 51
Rachel Worth, Developing a Method for the Study of the Clothing of the ‘Poor’: Some Themes in the Visual Representation of Rural Working-Class Dress, 1850-1900, p. 70

Research Note
Norman Biggs, Jenny Hutchinson, Knowles’ Patent Yarn Balance, p. 97
Natasha Cruthers, Debra Carr, Raechel Laing, The New Zealand Flax Fibre Industry, p. 103

Conference Reports, p. 112
Exhibition Reviews, p. 118
Book Reviews, p. 128

Katrina Honeyman, Lesley Miller, Editors’ Note, p. 143

ARTICLES
Christine Jackson, Boom-Time Freaks or Heroic Industriai Pioneers? Clothing Entrepreneurs in Sixteenth- and Early Seventeenth-Century Berkshire, p. 145
John Oldland, The London Fullers and Shearmen, and their Merger to Become the Clothworkers’ Company, p. 172
Janice Helland, ‘Caprices of Fashion’: Handmade Lace in Ireland 1883-1907, p. 193
Sarah Cheang, Dragons in the Drawing Room: Chinese Embroideries in British Homes, 1860-1949, p. 223

Obituary, p. 250
Conference Reports, p. 253
Exhibition Reviews, p. 260
Book Reviews, p. 273-280

Katrina Honeyman, Lesley Miller, Editors’ Note, p. 1

ARTICLES
David Jenkins, Textile History: 40 Years, p. 4
Karen Diadick Casselman, Women in Colour: Perceptions of Professionalism in Naturai Dyeing during the Arts And Crafts Period, p. 16
Kenneth C. Jackson, The Determinants of the Cotton Weaver’s Wage in Britain between the Wars: Principles, Criticisms, and Case Studies, p. 45
(25) Shinobu Majima, From Haute Couture to High Street: The Role of Shows and Fairs in Twentieth-Century Fashion, p. 70

Object Lesson
Susan North, The Physical Manifestation of an Abstraction: A Pair of 1750s Waistcoat Shapes, p. 92

Conference Reports, p. 106
Exhibition Reviews, p. 116
Book Reviews, p. 125

ARTICLES
Maria Hayward, Crimson, Scarlet, Murrey and Carnation: Red at the Court of Henry VIII, p. 135
Elizabeth Kramer, From Luxury to Mania: a Case Study of Anglo-Japanese Textile Production at Warner & Ramm, 1870-1890, p. 151
Margareth Ponsonby, Towards as Interpretation of Textiles in the Provincial Domestic Interior: Three Homes in the West Midlands, 1780-1848, p. 165
Eiluned Edwards, Cloth and Community: The Local Trade in Resist-Dyed and Block-Printed Textiles in Kachchh District. Gujarat, p. 179

OBJECT LESSON
Sally Gray, Reinterpreting a Textile Tradition: David McDiarmid’s Ecstatic and Utopian Klub Kwilt, p. 198

Obituaries, p. 211
Conference Reports, p. 214
Exhibitions reviews, p. 217
Book reviews, p. 225

ARTICLES
Clare Rose, “The novelty consists in the ornamental design”: Design Innovation in Mass-Produced Boys’ Clothing, 1840-1900, p. 1
Salihu Maiwada, Elisha P. Renne, New Technologies of Embroidered Robe Production and Changing Gender Roles in Zaria, Nigeria, 1950-2005, p. 25
Hwei-Fe’n Cheah, “Made in China”? A Case Study of Nonya Beadwork, p. 56

OBJECT LESSON
Lou Taylor, “To attract the attention of fish as little as possible”: An Object-Led Discussion of three Garments, for Country Wear for Women, Made of Scottish Woollen Cloth, dating from 1883-1908, p. 92

Conference Reports, p. 106
Exhibitions reviews, p. 109
Book reviews, p. 121

ARTICLES
Harald Deceulaer, Between Medieval Continuities and Early Modern Change: Proto-industrialization and Consumption in the Southern Low Countries (1300-1800), p. 123
Lynn Abrams, Knitting, Autonomy and Identity: The Role of Hand-Knitting in the Construction of Women’s Sense of Self in an Island Community, Shetland c. 1850-2000, p. 149
Fiona Anderson, This Sporting Cloth: Tweed, Gender and Fashion 1860-1900, p. 166

RESEARCH NOTE
David Peacock, Dyeing Winchcombe Kersies and Other Kersey Cloth in Sixteenth-Century Newbury, p. 187

Conference Reports, p. 203
Exhibitions reviews, p. 91
Book reviews, p. 102

ARTICLES
Wardle Patricia, A Rare Survival: The Barge Cloth of the Worshipful Company of Pewterers and the Embroiderer John Best., p. 1
Jones Peter, Clothing the Poor in Early-Nineteenth-Century England, p. 17
Cookson Gillian, A City in Search of Yarn: The Journal of Edard Taylor of Norwich, 1817, p. 38
Jackson Kenneth C., Enterprise in Some Working-Class Communities: Cotton Manufacturing in North-east Lancashire and West Craven c.1880 to 1914, p. 52

OBJECT LESSON
Thunder Moira, Designs and Clients for Embroidered Dress, 1782-94, p. 82

Exhibitions and Conferences, p. 91
Book reviews, p. 102

ARTICLES
Margaret C. Perivoliotis, The Role of Textile History in Design Innovation: A Case Study Using Hellenic Textile History, p. 1
Lynn Sorge-English, ’29 Doz and II Best Cutt Bone’: The Trade in Whalebone and Stays in Eighteenth-Century London, p. 20
Peter Solar, The Irish Linen Trade, 1852-1914, p. 46
Dong-Woon Kim, The British Multinational Enterprise in Latin America before 1919. The Case of J. & P. Coats, p. 69

Research Note, p. 86
Conference Reports, p. 94
Exhibition Review, p. 101
Book Reviews, p. 105
Short Reviews, p. 126

ARTICLES
Paul Knight, The Macclesfield Silk Button Industry: The Probate Evidence, p. 157
Kevin J. James, The Handloom in Ulster’s Post-Famine Linen Industry: The Limits of Mechanization in Textiles’ ‘Factory Age’, p. 178
Stephen R. H. Jones, Ross & Glendining and the Development of the New Zaland Woollen and Worsted Industries before 1914, p. 192

Exhibition Reviews, p. 212
Book Reviews, p. 217

ARTICLES
Miles Lambert, ‘Cast-off wearing apparell’: The Consumption and Distribution of Second-hand Clothing in Northern England during the Long Eighteenth Century, p. 1
Marilyn Palmer, Peter Neaverson, Home as Workplace in Nineteenth-Century Wiltshire and Gloucestershire, p. 27
Kenneth Jackson, The Room and Power System in the Cotton Weaving Industry of North-east, p. 58
Mary Lynn Stewart, Marketing Fabrics and Femininity in Inter-war France, p. 90

OBJECT LESSONS
Rita Andrade, Louise Boulanger and Interwar French Couture: Revelations from Object Analysis, p. 112

RESEARCH NOTES
Norman Biggs, A Tale Untangled: Measuring the Fineness of Yarn, p. 120

Exhibition Reviews, p. 130
Conference Reports, p. 135
Book Reviews, p. 139

INTRODUCTION
Katrina Honeyman, Andrew Godley, Doing Business with Fashion, p. 101

ARTICLES
Giorgio Riello, La chaussure à la mode: Production Innovation and Marketing Practices in Parisian and London Boot and Shoemaking in the Early Nineteenth Century, p. 107
Winifred Aldrich, The Impact of Fashion on the Cutting Practices for the Woman’s Tailored Jacket, 1800-1927, p. 134
Katrina Honeyman, Style Monotony and the Business of Fashion: The Marketing of Menswear in Inter-war England, p. 171
Laura Ugolini, Ready-to-wear or Made-to-measure? Consumer Choice in the British Menswear Trade, 1900-1939, p. 192
Andrew Godley, Anne Kershen, Raphael Schapiro, Fashion and its Impact on the Economic Development of London’s East End Womenswear Industry, 1929-62: The Case of Ellis and Goldstein, p. 214

Research Notes, p. 229
Exhibition Reviews, p. 235
Book Reviews, p. 241

Editorial, p. IV
Beverly Lemire, Stanley Chapman: A Guiding Hand Over Two Decades. A Tribute to the Out-Going Editor to Textile History, p. V
Sarah Levitt, Stanley Chapman and Museums, p. IX
Stanley D. Chapman, Bibliography, p. XV

ARTICLES
Jane Farrell-Beck, ‘Lifeblood of the Business’: Fitters in American Foundations Departments, 1910s-1950s, p. 1
James K. J. Thomson, Transferring the Spinning Jenny to Barcelona: An Apprenticeship in the ‘Technology of the Industrial Revolution, p. 21
Margaret Spufford, Fabric for Seventeenth-Century Children and Adolescents’ Chothes, p. 47
Clare Browne, Salamander’s Wool: The Historical Evidence for Textiles Woven with Asbestos Fibre, p. 64

OBJECT LESSONS
Cory Silverstein-Willmott, An Ojibway Artifact Unraveled. The Case of the Bag with the Snake Skin Strap, p. 74

Conference Reports, p. 82
Book Reviews, p. 86

Editorial, p. 135

ARTICLES
Hilary L. Turner, Finding the Sheldon Weavers: Richard Hyckes and the Barcheston Tapestry Works Reconsidered, p. 137
Kimberly Chrisman Campbell, Paisley Before the Shawl, p. 162
Anna Harrison, Kathryn Gill, An Eighteenth-century Detachable Pocket and Baby’s Cap, found Concealed in a Wall Cavity: Conservation and Research, p. 177
Derek Brumhead, New Milis in Bowden Middlecale: Domestic Textiles in the Rural Economy before the Industrial Revolution and the Change to Factory Cotton, p. 195
Richard Biernacki, Culture and Know-how in the ‘Satanic Mills’: An Anglo-German Comparison, p. 219

Book Reviews, p. 238

Special issue: STEVEN KING, CHRISTIANA PAYNE, DRESS OF THE POOR
Guest Editors’, Introduction, p. 1

ARTICLES
John Styles, Involuntary consumers? Servants and their Clothes in Eighteenth-Century England, p. 9
Sam Smiles, Defying Comprehension: Resistance to Uniform Appearance in Depicting the Poor, 1770s to 1830s, p. 22
Steven King, Reclothing the English Poor, 1750-1840, p. 37
Christiana Payne, ‘Murillo-like Rags or Clean Pinafores’: Artistic and Social Preferences in the Representation of the Dress of the Rural Poor, p. 48
Christine Stevens, Welsh Peasant Dress – Workwear or National Costume?, p. 63
Brian Maidment, 101 Things to Do with a Fantail Hat: Dustmen, Dirt and Dandyism, 1820-1860, p. 79
C. M. Jackson-Houlston, ‘The Burial-Place of the Fashions’: The Representation of the Dress of the Poor in Illustrated Serial Prose by Dickens and Hardy, p. 98
Karen Sayer, ‘A Sufficiency of Clothing’: Dress and Domesticity in Victorian Britain, p. 112

Book Reviews, p. 123

ARTICLES
Patricia Wardle, John Shepley (1575-1631), Embroiderer to the High and Mighty Prince Charles, Prince of Wales, p. 133
Philip Sykas, The North West Pattern Book Survey, p. 156
David M. Swan, British Cotton Mills in Pre-Second World War China, p. 175
Jennie Brunton, Annie Garnett: the Arts and Crafts Movement and the business of textile manufacture, p. 217

Book reviews, p. 239
Pasold research fund, p. 247

ARTICLES
Lisa Monnas, Textiles for the Coronation of Edward III, p. 2
Anna Muthesius, The “cult “of imperial and Ecclesiastic Silks in Byzantium, p. 36
Frances Pritchard, Medieval textiles in the Bock collection at the Whitworth art gallery, p. 48
Marianne Ellis, Embroideries from islamic medieval Egypt in the Newberry collection, Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, p. 61
Petra Linscheid, Late antique to early islamic textiles from Egypt, p. 75
Alisa Baginski, Later islamic and medieval textiles from excavations of the Israel antiquities authority, p. 81
Orit Shamir, Byzantine and early islamic textiles excavated in Israel, p. 93
Linda Woolley, Medieval mediterranean textiles in the Victoria and Albert museum: Resist dyed linens from Egypt dating from the fourth to the seventh centuries a.d., p. 106
M. Knockert, Italian silks of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries in Sandinavia, p. 114
P.A. Sikas, A medieval textile forgery, p. 119

Book reviews, p. 122
Pasold research fund, p. 128